Scus-scus was one of Dominic’s ‘big hits’ when he was little, but I don’t make it as often as I used to. I tend to do that with grains – I go through bulgar wheat spells, couscous moments and quinoa crazes (feel a bit bad about that one now for environmental reasons so need to read up a bit more before I go back to it). After about 5 rice based meals in a row, I dug out Plenty, the Yotam Ottolenghi book I love dearly in search of something new for our repetoire.
Usually couscous is a fridge-fallout affair. Whatever is left in the bottom, plus some frozen peas, and a bunch of herbs and spices go in. In fact I’m not sure I’ve ever actually followed a recipe involving couscous before.
The ingredient list is long, but most of it (for me anyway) is store cupboard, and whatever isn’t is replaceable/omitable. My amendments are in brackets beside the ingredients. As ever, most of the recipes from the book can be found on The Guardian website.
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 2cm chunks
2 parsnips, peeled and cut into 2cm chunks
8 shallots, peeled (I have onions, so I’ll use 2 smallish ones thanks)
2 cinnamon sticks (hmm. Some ground cinnamon will do)
4 star anise (not on my watch)
3 bay leaves
5 tbsp olive oil
1½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground ginger
½ tsp ground turmeric
½ tsp paprika
½ tsp chilli flakes
300g squash, peeled and cut into 2cm chunks (cleaned weight)
100g unsulphured dried apricots, roughly chopped
350ml water (or chickpea liquid)
1 big pinch saffron fronds (not right now dudes, haven’t got any)
260ml vegetable stock
20g butter, cut into small pieces
25g preserved lemon, finely chopped (the lemons in the fruit bowl were there at least 2 weeks, do they count?)
1 handful picked coriander leaves (stirred in some of that stuff in a tube)
Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5. Put the carrots, parsnips and shallots into a large, oven-proof dish, add the cinnamon, star anise, bay leaves, four tablespoons of oil, half a teaspoon of salt and all the spices, and mix. Roast for 15 minutes, then add the squash, stir and roast for 35 minutes more, by which time the vegetables should have softened but retained their bite. Add the apricots, chickpeas and liquid, then return to the oven for 10 minutes, until hot.
Around 15 minutes before the vegetables will be ready, put the couscous in a heatproof bowl with a tablespoon of olive oil, the saffron and half a teaspoon of salt. Boil the stock, pour over the couscous and cover with clingfilm. Leave for 10 minutes, then add the butter and fluff up with a fork until it melts in. Cover again and leave somewhere warm.
To serve, fill the base of a deep plate with couscous. Stir the harissa and lemon into the vegetables, taste, adjust the seasoning and spoon on to the centre of the couscous. Garnish with lots of coriander.
I will say if you and your family are not used to harissa paste – proceed with caution in its use. I tested it, and ended up halving the dish, and only adding a small bit to half and the prescribed amount to me & the husband’s half. I did leave in the paprika and chilli flakes – the boys seem well able. As ever, I stirred in some creme fraiche to cool down any over-spiciness for them. And lets face it to make the couscous/floor interface slightly less overwhelming to clean up afterwards. That stuff clumps tiny foodstuffs nicely!
It’s a lovely warm-the-cockles-of-your-heart dish. The sticky couscous adheres to a spoon nicely, and a toddler gaining cutlery skills can stab a roasted bit of butternut squash with a fork like a pro. It’s not difficult, but does take a bit of time, so I recommend it on a lazy Sunday afternoon. You’ve got time, but would rather be snuggling on the sofa with your kids than being stressed in the kitchen. This recipe makes a mountain, so there’s monday’s lunch sorted too!
As a side note, can I also point out, dried apricots are the bee knees for a kids snack. They’re a little bit of work for a toddler, so if you have the very dry rather than semi dry ones soak them for a bit before you give them for a snack. I found the Tesco Wholefoods range ones grand to give straight to them. And a nearly 4 year old thinks he’s eating sweets so win-win!